Earrings are emblematic pieces of feminine jewellery that have been reinvented throughout the ages. From ancient times to the present, they have captured the attention and expressed the personality of those who wear them. Let's delve into the fascinating world of earrings, exploring their rich history, diverse styles and tips for finding the perfect pair.

 

The fascinating history of earrings

Earrings have a history stretching back thousands of years to more than 8,000 BC. Their evolution through the ages reflects the cultural and artistic changes of civilisations.

From ancient origins to modern trends

The first earrings to be discovered were made of jade in Mongolia in 8000 BC. Over the centuries, they have undergone many changes :

• 3000 BC: Appearance of precious metal buckles in Mesopotamia
• 2000 BC: Development of hinged earrings in Ancient Greece
• 1st century: Popularity of 'crotalia' in the Roman Empire
• Renaissance: Earrings make a comeback in Europe
• 19th century: Diversification of styles under the influence of Queen Victoria
• 20th century: Technical and creative innovations (invisible settings, clips)
• 21st century: Democratisation and personalisation of earrings

 

Yellow gold crescent earrings, Royal Tombs of Ur, MET Museum New York, 2600-2500 BC

 

Baules Earrings, MET Museum New York, 600 BC

 

Earrings in the Roman Empire: a social symbol

Under the Roman Empire, from the 1st century AD onwards, earrings were an important social symbol, the presence of several dangling pearls indicating a respectable housewife, while single pearls were the preserve of prostitutes.

Pairs of gold and pearl-strung Crotalia, MET Museum New York, 1st century

 

The Middle Ages: ear ornaments make a bad impression

During the Middle Ages, it was fashionable to cover the head or wear the hair long, which hid the earrings and rendered them useless. Moreover, the Christian dogma of modesty disapproved of piercing one's ears, as the church took a dim view of extravagant dress and finery.

 

Renaissance: Earrings are in fashion

Earrings reappeared during the Renaissance, first in Italy and Spain, where it became fashionable for men to wear pearls. In the 17th century, three-pronged earrings evolved into heavier pendants with a single pendant. Enamel was gradually replaced by precious stones such as emeralds and diamonds. The sometimes excessive weight of these earrings made them difficult to wear.

The young woman with the pearl necklace, most likely a portrait of Elisabeth of Bohemia, Princess Palatine by Gerrit Van Honthorst, 1644
La Tour Camoufle, Paris

 

Poissardes revolutionise ear ornaments

In France, questions of equality and the end of the ancien régime led to a demand for less ostentatious jewellery. Earrings became thinner and flatter and were stripped of precious stones; these new earrings were called ‘Poissardes’.

Poissardes parisiennes ou dames de la Halles, marching to Versailles, morning of the 5 of october 1789, Anonymous print, Musée Carnavalet

 

Ear jewellery or tiara : who will have the last word ? 

Under the Empire, earrings grew longer, sometimes touching the shoulders, and lighter thanks to the use of new techniques such as repoussé, which allowed gold to be worked very finely.

The mid-19th century saw a return to hairstyles that covered the ears, a period when earrings were abandoned in favour of tiaras.

However, Queen Victoria of England gradually revived the taste for earrings. Earrings from this period came in a wide variety of styles, and Europe's enthusiasm for archaeological discoveries brought antique styles back into fashion.

Portrait of Queen Victoria, Royal Collection, oil on canvas, Franz Xaver Winterhalter, 1859

 

When earrings become works of art

Earrings first appeared at the beginning of the 20th century. It was also during this period that some of the great names in jewellery began to make a name for themselves through their innovations.

Cartier, for example, used platinum to create earrings in the form of diamond-paved garlands. Van Cleef & Arpels launched its invisible setting, allowing earrings to be paved in a new way.

Gouache of earrings using the mysterious setting, Van Cleef & Arpels

 

As hairstyles became shorter, earrings grew longer and took on bolder shapes. Around 1930, the more secure Alpa clasp and clip fasteners for non-pierced ears were introduced.

After the platinum craze, yellow gold made a strong comeback. During these complicated times, it was common to rework old jewellery or use synthetic stones to save money.

The post-war years saw the golden age of ear clips and the arrival of costume jewellery.

It was in the 1970s, thanks largely to the invention of ear piercing guns, that we saw the return of pierced earrings. This was the golden age of earrings set with diamonds or other coloured stones. It was also the great modernist period that saw the appearance of very heavy and imposing gold earrings set with coral, onyx, ivory, chrysoprase and turquoise from the houses of Chaumet, Boucheron, Fred and Van Cleef & Arpels...

In the 80s and 90s, large, colourful and extravagant earrings, often clip-ons, were in vogue. Marina B's tyre style is a very representative example. Some of these earrings came with interchangeable gemstones: amethyst, citrine, peridot, jade, rhodochrosite, etc.

"Tire" Earrings by Marina B

Not to be outdone, men also started wearing earrings.

Finally, in the 2000s, it became common to wear several earrings per ear, rather than just one on the earlobe.

 

Timeless earring styles

Over the centuries, certain styles of earrings have become classics, appreciated for their elegance and versatility.

Studs and chip : minimalist elegance

Studs, or chips, are a jewellery staple. Simple and refined, they consist of a stem that passes through the earlobe, revealing only a motif or precious stone. Perfect for an elegant everyday look, they come in gold, silver or platinum and are often set with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds or pearls.

Stud Earrings in White Gold and Diamonds

 

Hoops Earrings : the timeless ring

Hoops - rings of varying widths - are a versatile choice for many occasions. They can be thin and discreet or wide and imposing, in plain precious metal or set with sparkling stones. Their circular shape symbolises eternity, making them a popular choice for engagement or wedding jewellery.

Emerald-paved hoop earrings in white gold

 

Sleepers : comfort first

Designed to be worn at all times, the sleepers consist of two hinged parts. Their design makes them comfortable to wear, even during sleep. Popular in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, they are enjoying a revival among vintage jewellery lovers.

White Gold "Sleepers" Paved with Emerald Cut Effect Diamonds

 

Did you know?

In many cultures, earrings are an inseparable symbol of womanhood, which is why girls are almost always pierced at birth.

 

Clasp systems : security and comfort

The choice of clasp is crucial to the comfort and security of your earrings. Here are the main systems :

For pierced ears

• The Alpa system, invented between the wars, offers added security thanks to a perforated disc fitted with springs.

Pair of pendant earrings in white gold set with pear-cut, brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds, Alpa system

 

• Poussette clasps: also a rod clasp, this is the ancestor of the Alpa system. It consists of a bent, pierced metal plate that clasps the stem. Common for antique earrings, it is now used for less precious and more expensive earrings.

Pink Gold Eclairs Diamond-Paved Stud Earrings, "Poussette" Clasps

 

• The Breakaway System: This system is an evolution of simple hooks. In addition to the hook, this system includes a mobile part that forms a closed loop between the body of the loop and the end of the hook.

Yellow Gold Rose Opal Sleepers, Breakaway System

 

• The Assi System: patented in 2011, this system integrates the clasp into the buckle. When open, it takes the form of a simple ear stud that can be bent to fit the ear once in place.

 

A large number of customers refuse to have their ears pierced but still want to adorn them, so over the years various systems have been developed to accommodate them.

For non-pierced ears

• Clips : This shape of earring is ideal for non-pierced ears, as it resembles a kind of clip. They were very popular in the second half of the 20th century, and were often the occasion for important shapes.

Pink Gold Clips Earrings set with Turquoise

 

• The screw system: this system consists of a ring that goes around the lobe and is secured by a screw that is tightened against the ear. This is a fairly old system that can still be found on jewellery from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Yellow Gold Earrings Set with Sapphires, Screw System

 

• The spring system: Often adapted to hoop earrings, this system consists of a small spring that presses on the lobes to hold the buckle in place.

 

Choosing vintage earrings: expert advice

 

Selecting the perfect pair of vintage earrings requires a discerning eye and a little knowledge. Here are our recommendations :

 

Examine condition and authenticity

 

Inspect the earrings carefully for damage or repairs. Check the hallmarks and maker's marks to ensure authenticity. Don't hesitate to ask for a certificate of authenticity for high-value pieces.

 

Consider the style and period

 

Choose earrings that match your personal style while reflecting the aesthetics of their era. Art Deco pieces, for example, are characterised by geometric lines, while jewellery from the 1960s often features bold floral motifs.

 

Assess the quality of materials

 

Choose precious metals such as gold, silver or platinum for their durability. For gemstones, look for size, clarity and colour. Vintage pearls should have an even lustre and a smooth surface.

 

Care and preservation of vintage earrings

 

To maintain the beauty and value of your vintage earrings, proper care is essential.

 

Gentle cleaning

Use a solution of warm water and mild soap to clean your earrings. Avoid harsh chemicals that could damage antique materials. For pieces set with delicate stones, consult a professional jeweller.

 

Proper storage

Store your vintage earrings in jewellery boxes lined with soft fabric, away from moisture and direct light. Separate different pairs to avoid scratching and tangling.

 

To sum up: the timeless appeal of vintage earrings

 

Vintage earrings offer a unique blend of history, craftsmanship and style. From delicate studs to bold creoles and elegant hoops, these jewels add a touch of sophistication to any outfit. By choosing and caring for your vintage earrings carefully, you'll be able to enjoy their beauty for years to come.

 

At Les Pierres de Julie, we're passionate about vintage jewellery and would love to help you find the perfect pair.

Don't hesitate to contact us for a free appraisal of your earrings or to discover our carefully selected collection. Visit our boutique in the heart of Paris, in the Village Suisse, for a unique experience in the fascinating world of vintage jewellery.